Reportedly first designed in 1888 by British draper George Key in Staffordshire for labourers building the Manchester Ship Canal, the iconic Donkey Jacket was likely named after the steam-powered winches known as ‘donkey engines’, which the canal workers operated.
They needed a tough and weatherproof coat, and the classic donkey jacket was born. Made from thick Melton wool with a straight, untailored cut, the coat featured a high, stiff collar (to turn up against biting winds and rain) and a reinforced leather shoulder panel (later replaced by rubberised PVC) to keep rain off and protect the wool when carrying loads on the shoulder.
The unassuming coat quickly became a staple for manual labourers across the UK. By the mid-20th century, donkey jackets were worn by dockworkers, road crews, farmers, and construction workers everywhere.
They were the default work jacket for outdoor work in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s.
Builders wore them so routinely that they were often nicknamed “builder’s jackets.” Even council bin collectors famously wore donkey jackets on their rounds, pairing them with flat caps and hefting metal dustbins on their shoulders.
The National Coal Board issued donkey jackets to miners, sometimes with bright orange shoulder pads emblazoned “NCB” and even reflective strips sewn on.
From the 1960s onwards, the donkey jacket evolved into a symbol of anti-establishment identity in Britain, and was adopted by Skinheads, Mods and Teddy Boys. And during the UK miners’ strikes of the 1970s and 1980s, the jacket became the unofficial uniform of solidarity and trade union resilience.
In the 21st Century, brands like Relco London and Real Hoxton keep the traditional subculture style alive with affordable PVC reconstructions.
Concurrently, high-end luxury heritage labels like Drake’s and garment archivists like The Real McCoy’s offer premium, tailored versions utilising Italian wool and high-grade leather panels.
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The unassuming coat quickly became a staple for manual labourers across the UK. By the mid-20th century, donkey jackets were worn by dockworkers, road crews, farmers, and construction workers everywhere.
